This dish marries the traditions of two preparations: pancakes and what were commonly called "German fritters" (Farley 215). American and European cooks of the eighteenth century commonly prepared pancakes of all kinds based on a variety of grains and flavorings. German fritters seem to have generally been prepared with a light batter or simply flour, as well as apples cooked in liquor (often brandy), sugar, butter or lard, and spices. Both of these dishes have significant roots in northern European cooking traditions and were popular in Philadelphia due to the city's large German population. Flavored with nutmeg, cinnamon, apples, and rum, these pancakes pay tribute to the influences of German foodways on English cooking in Philadelphia.
Make 1 dozen pancakes
Ingredients
Pancakes
1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
Ground nutmeg, to taste
1 cup whole milk
6 large eggs
6 large egg yolks
3 tablespoons light rum
Filling
Nonstick cooking spray
6 ounces (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted
4 apples, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2 inch cubes
Prepare the Pancakes: In a medium-size bowl, add the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and nutmeg; stir to combine. Whisk in the milk.
To the milk-flour mixture, gradually add the eggs and yolks, whisking each in before adding the next cluster. Whisk in the rum.
Chill the batter for at least 1 hour or overnight.
Prepare the Filling and Pancakes: Warm a 6-inch omelet pan or crepe pan over high heat. Spray the pan with cooking spray, and add 2 tablespoons of the melted butter. Add a handful of apples and walnuts, and sprinkle with a tablespoon of the sugar and some cinnamon and nutmeg. Cook, stirring, until the apples are tender but still firm, about 1 minute. Using a 3-ounce ladle, pour the pancake batter into the center of the hot pan. Lift the pan from the heat and tilt it, spreading the batter evenly across the pan. Increase the heat to medium-high heat, and cook the pancake until bubbles begin to form and the pancake is lightly browned, about 45 seconds.
Flip the pancake and cook 45 seconds more, until the opposite side is golden. Transfer the pancake to a plate.
Continue cooking the pancakes, starting with Step 4, until the batter is finished.
Flummery
