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Shaker Shingles

Making Shingles

Sections Overview Making Shingles Historic Patterns Replacement Options

Overview

Historic Patterns

The process of making shingles is a little tricky. Cut the logs into 2 1/2-foot lengths. Split the lengths into quarters and trim off the bark. If the log is exceptionally large (over 2 1/2 feet in diameter), section it into pieces about 10 to 12 inches at the widest part. Stand the wood upright so you work with the end grain.

Now for your first shingle. Pound the froe into the upright wood bolt from 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the edge. The distance from the edge depends on how thick you want the shingle. As you pound with the mallet, work the froe back and forth. Keep on pounding and moving the froe down the block until the shingle splits off with the grain. Sometimes you'll need to insert a wedge to help split the shingle. These shingles will be the same thickness top and bottom.

If you want to taper them, turn the block of wood end for end after each shingle is cut. It will take a while to master the proper technique for hammering and wiggling the froe. This depends on your strength and the kind of wood you're using, so be prepared to spoil a few shingles at first.

One side of the shingle probably will need to be smoothed to have it lie flat when nailed to the wall or roof. Our ancestors used a plane and shaving horse. If you've got a plane, you can use it for this operation. You'll want to smooth the back of your shingles with an axe, cutting onto a block of wood. A shingle hatchet also works well.

You can stain your shingles or leave them natural. Since a penetrating stain adds protection, it should be used on woods that aren't as long-lasting as the cedars. You can stain cedar, too, but mainly when you want dark-colored shingles (and new white cedar shingles are very light in color).

When nailing the shingles, use blunt-pointed nails unless you have access to an antique nail punch as see in the picture. There is less splitting of the wood than with sharp-pointed nails. Cedar won't split much, but nails do make a difference if you've made shingles of some other wood. Choose galvanized coated nails so the heads won't rust and stain the wood if they're exposed.

Use a plumb line or carpenter's level to keep the sides of the shingles straight and a horizontal level string for a straight shingle line. Start at the bottom of the wall or roof with a double course and work up, adding layer upon layer. You'll want to overlap the shingles at least six inches on the lower row. Also remember to alternate them so that each shingle covers the joint of the two shingles on the row beneath it, or you'll have problems with leaks.

The craft traditions of the builders often played an important role in the final appearance of the building. Each installation differs on each roof, but some of the basic types of layout are long biaxially-tapered side-lapped, traditional overlap, fancy butts (fish-scaled), staggered overlap, and steamed and bent (thatched).

In the biography section of Colonial Sense, we have a detailed account from Jonas Heinrich Gudehus on the view of the shingled roofs in the 1820's in his autobiography Journey to America. Gudehus states, "The houses of the Americans as well as their farm buildings have wooden shingle roofs that are so thick and solid that a ray of light can come through nowhere. These roofs are painted red, brown, or dark blue with oil color and on most of them is to be found a lightning rod..."

Handmade shingles provide a guaranteed conversation piece at our front door. But because shingle-making takes time, you might prefer to use them for accent rather than an entire building. But in the end, you'll find it's worth it. What was a necessity for our ancestors is a successfully acquired skill for us, and the satisfaction of the effort is without measure.

Source: Adapted from an article by Leigh Cree White.

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