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For these dye projects, use 1 pound of wool.

Natural Dyeing Picture
Bayberry(Myrica pensylvanica) Native shrub with aromatic leaves and berries.

Parts Used: Foliage. Berries may be included.

Dye Colors Achieved: Gray-green or yellow-green, with alum as mordant.

Mordanting Procedure

1. Dissolve 3 oz. alum and 1 oz. cream of tartar in 3-4 gals. of cold water.

2. Stir.

3. Add 1lb. of wool that is thoroughly wet.

4. Slowly bring water to simmering, Simmer (not boil) for about 1 hour.

5. Stir gently a few times so mordant mixture evenly permeates the wool.

6. Remove the pot from fire and allow water with wool to cool. Wool can then be removed and rolled in a towel to keep it moist until dyebath is ready, If wool becomes dry. be sure to thoroughly wet it again before immersing in dyebath.

Dyeing Procedure

1. Soak about 1 peck (1/4 of a bushel basket) of shredded leaves overnight (or for about 12 hours) in 2-3 gals. of water, or enough water to cover.

2. Boil for an hour to extract the dye.

3. Strain out plant parts and add sufficient water to make a dyebath of 3-4 gals.

4. Add mordanted, thoroughly wet wool to dyebath while it is still lukewarm.

5. Slowly increase heat to simmering temperature. Simmer (not boil) about a half hour.

6. Stir often and be sure all the wool is covered by the liquid. If water evaporates from dyebath lift the wool from the water, add hot water, stir well. and replace wool. The wool can cool in the dyebath (stir occassionally) or be removed immediately.

7. When wool is taken from dyebath, it should be rinsed three or four times in increasingly cool baths, the first rinse being in water about the same temperature as the dyebath. The yarn should be rinsed until the water is clear. It is then ready for gradual drying, protected from heat and sun.

Natural Dyeing Picture
Bittersweet (Ceiastrus scalldens) Native vine with orange-red berries.

Parts Used: Berries.

Dye Colors Achieved: Tan with alum as mordant; orange-yellow with tin as mordant.

Mordanting Procedure

1. To achieve tan dye, follow directions under bayberry for mordanting with alum and cream of tartar.

To achieve orange-yellow colors with tin, measure 1/2oz. tin and 1 oz. of cream of tarter and dissolve in 3-4 gals. of water.

2. Stir, then add thoroughly wet wool. Slowly increase heat to simmering point and simmer about an hour.

3. Remove wool from mordant bath and rinse in lightly soapy, warm water. Wool can be rolled in a towel or allowed to dry until dyebath is ready. (Don't forget to thoroughly wet the wool before adding to dyebath though.) Caution: Tin is a harsh chemical that can harm wool, so measure it carefully.

Dyeing Procedure

1. Soak about 1/2 to 3/4 peck of ripe, mashed berries overnight in enough water to cover. Boil about a half hour to extract the dye.

2. Strain out berry pulp, add enough water to make a 3-4 gal. dyebath.

3. Add mordanted, wet wool and slowly bring dyebath to a simmer.

4. Simmer about a half hour.

5. Continue dyeing procedure as outlined under bayberry.

Natural Dyeing Picture
Black Walnut (Juglans nigra) Nutbearing native tree.

Parts Used: Hulls of nuts.

Dye Colors Achieved: Rich browns, no mordant.

Dyeing Procedure:

1. Nuts fall from trees throughout autumn. The hulls are first green, then turn brownish-black and can be used for dyeing at any stage. Wear rubber gloves to separate hulls from nuts by macerating with a hammer.

2. Soak about 3/4 peck of hulls for about an hour, then boil for 30 minutes or until water is strongly colored.

3. Strain out hulls.

4. Add sufficient water to make a dyebath of 3-4 gals.

5. Immerse thoroughly wet wool and slowly raise water temperature to simmering.

6. Simmer for about 20 minutes.

7. Rinse wool in clear water as warm as dyebath, gradually cooling the water with successive rinses. The beginner who starts with this easy recipe and its so-satisfying color results will be hooked on natural dyeing forevermore.

Natural Dyeing Picture
Dahlia (Dahlia pinnata) Tuberous-rooted summer garden flower.

Parts Used: Flowers.

Dye Colors Achieved: Yellow with alum as mordant; orange with chrome as mordant.

Mordanting Procedure

1. For yellow color, follow mordanting instructions for alum and cream of tartar under bayberry.

2. To achieve orange color, dissolve 1/2 oz. of chrome in 3-4 gals. of water, stir and immerse wool.

Cover the container as chrome is very light-sensitive (store dry chrome in light-proof container), and simmer about 1 hour.

Let the wool cool in the covered pot, probably overnight.

Dyeing Procedure

1. Boil about 1-1 1/2 pecks of shredded flowers in about a gal. of water (or enough to cover flowers) for 20 minutes or until color has been extracted from the flowers.

2. Strain out flowers.

3. Add water to make 3-4 gals. of dyebath.

4. Add mordanted, wet wool and simmer about 15-20 minutes. Then continue as described under bayberry.

Natural Dyeing Picture
Chrysanthemum (Crysanthemum monfolium) Fall-blooming garden perennial.

Parts Used: Yellow and red flowers.

Dye Colors Achieved: Yellow color with yellow flowers and tin as mordant; bronze shades with red flowers and tin as mordant.

Mordanting Procedure

1. Follow directions for mordanting with tin under bittersweet.

Dyeing Procedure

1. Boil about 1-1/2 pecks of shredded red or yellow flowers in 2-3 gals. of water for about 20 minutes.

2. Strain out flowers.

Add enough water to dyebath to make 3-4 gals.

3. Add mordanted, wet wool to lukewarm bath and gradually increase heat to simmering temperature.

4. Simmer 15 to 20 minutes.

5. Continue dyebath procedure as outlined under bayberry.

Natural Dyeing Picture
Tomato (Lycopersicum esculentum var. commune) Popular home-garden vegetable.

Parts Used: Vines (stems and foliage).

Dye Colors Achieved: Yellow with tin as mordant.

Mordanting Procedure

1. Follow directions for mordanting with tin under bittersweet.

Dyeing Procedure

1. Chop up about a peck of vines.

2. Cover with water and boil about 20 minutes.

3. Strain out plant parts, add water to make 3-4 gals.

4. Add mordanted wet wool and simmer about 30 minutes.

5. Continue as described under bayberry.

Natural Dyeing Picture
Zinnia (Zinnia elegans) Popular summer-flowering annual.

Parts Used: Flower heads



Dye Colors Achieved: Light yellow with alum as mordant; green shades with chrome as mordant.



Mordanting Procedure

For mordanting with alum. see directions under bayberry.

For mordanting with chrome, see dahlia.

Dyeing Procedure

1. Cover about a peck of shredded flower heads with water and boil for 15-20 minutes or until color is extracted.

2. Strain out flowers, add water to make a dyebath of 3-4 gals.

3. Immerse mordanted, wet wool.

Simmer about 20-30 minutes.

Follow dyebath instructions for rinsing under bayberry.

Natural Dyeing Picture
Goldenrod (Solidago spp.) Widely distributed summer- and fall-blooming native.

Parts Used: Flower heads.

Dye Colors Achieved: Dark yellow with alum as mordant~ golden-yellow with chrome as mordant.

Mordanting Procedure

Follow instructions under bayberry for mordanting with alum

Follow instructions under dahlia for mordanting with chrome.

Dyeing Procedure

1. Collect heads of goldenrod as they are coming into flower. Use fresh, or air-dry for later use.

2. Boil 1-1 1/2 pecks of fresh flowers (about 3/4 peck of dried) for 15 to 20 minutes.

3. Strain out flowers and add water to make 3-4 gals. of dyebath.

4. Add mordanted, wet wool and simmer about 20 minutes.

5. Continue as described under bayberry.

Natural Dyeing Picture
Marigold (Tagetes) Popular summer blooming garden annual.

Parts Used: Flower heads.

Dye Colors Achieved: Lemon-yellow with alum as mordant; bright orange with tin as mordant.

Mordanting Procedure

For mordanting with alum follow instructions described under bayberry

For mordanting with tin follow those described under bittersweet.

Dyeing Procedure

Marigold flowers can be used fresh or can be dried for later use.

1. Boil about 1-1 1/2 pecks of fresh flowers (about 3/4 peck of dried) for 20 minutes. 2. Remove spent flowers.

3. Add sufficient water to make a dyebath of 3-4 gals.

4. Add mordanted, wet wool and simmer about 20 minutes.

5. Continue as described under bayberry.

Source: Research & text by Bryan Wright

Related Links:

EarthGuild
Earthsong Fibers
Earthues
The Mannings

Comments (1) 
SimonsLaura
12/04/12
The steps are really good enough we can apply the procedure on home without much difficulty.

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